The Culinary Connoisseur
Jewish Food Around the World—Next Stop: India
For centuries, India has been home to Jews. The Jews of
Cochin, a port city on India’s southwestern coast, have lived in India for at
least a millennium. According to their tradition, they settled there after the
destruction of the Bayis Sheini. Coconut and coconut oil were abundant and made
their way into the Jewish dishes.
Cochin, a port city on India’s southwestern coast, have lived in India for at
least a millennium. According to their tradition, they settled there after the
destruction of the Bayis Sheini. Coconut and coconut oil were abundant and made
their way into the Jewish dishes.
Jews living in
Bombay and Calcutta came from Baghdad when British rule began in the 19th
century. Lured by economic opportunities and afraid of growing anti-Semitism,
some became extremely wealthy as developers and manufacturers, and their
affluence was reflected in their food. They love rice dishes that are very
elaborate.
Bombay and Calcutta came from Baghdad when British rule began in the 19th
century. Lured by economic opportunities and afraid of growing anti-Semitism,
some became extremely wealthy as developers and manufacturers, and their
affluence was reflected in their food. They love rice dishes that are very
elaborate.
Aloo makalla–described as “the most famous Jewish
dish in India”—is the product of a combination of Arabic and Indian cooking
practices common among Baghdadi Jews. Long-simmered in hot oil, whole potatoes
form a hard exterior but stay soft inside, leading the flesh of the potato to
“jump” out when cut into—the root of the dish’s nickname, “Jumping Potatoes.” These potatoes are often served with murgi (spicy
chicken), bhaji (curried vegetables) and other vegetable and rice
dishes. The generous use of sesame and nuts also reflects Jewish Middle Eastern
lineage.
dish in India”—is the product of a combination of Arabic and Indian cooking
practices common among Baghdadi Jews. Long-simmered in hot oil, whole potatoes
form a hard exterior but stay soft inside, leading the flesh of the potato to
“jump” out when cut into—the root of the dish’s nickname, “Jumping Potatoes.” These potatoes are often served with murgi (spicy
chicken), bhaji (curried vegetables) and other vegetable and rice
dishes. The generous use of sesame and nuts also reflects Jewish Middle Eastern
lineage.
Historically, the largest group of Jews in India is the
Bene Israel, discovered by European missionaries in the 18th century in the
western Indian state of Maharashtra. Bene Israel tradition tells of a shipwreck
in ancient times that stranded them in India, where they remained and mingled
with the native people of Maharashtra. Interestingly, DNA tests have confirmed
that they are of Middle-Eastern Jewish origin.
Bene Israel, discovered by European missionaries in the 18th century in the
western Indian state of Maharashtra. Bene Israel tradition tells of a shipwreck
in ancient times that stranded them in India, where they remained and mingled
with the native people of Maharashtra. Interestingly, DNA tests have confirmed
that they are of Middle-Eastern Jewish origin.
Whatever their origins, the Jews of India shared a love
of sweets. They make many desserts, usually in conjunction with a Yom Tov. Gulab
jamun, fritters soaked in a sugar syrup, are popular during Chanukah; Yom
Kippur fasts are broken with padhar, a coconut-filled crepe and Purim is
associated with malpua, a sweet pancake made with bananas, pineapple and
other fruits and served with a syrup.
of sweets. They make many desserts, usually in conjunction with a Yom Tov. Gulab
jamun, fritters soaked in a sugar syrup, are popular during Chanukah; Yom
Kippur fasts are broken with padhar, a coconut-filled crepe and Purim is
associated with malpua, a sweet pancake made with bananas, pineapple and
other fruits and served with a syrup.
2 pounds small potatoes of uniform size, peeled1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
About 3 cups canola or peanut oil for frying
Place the potatoes in a large pot and add water to just
cover. Add the salt and turmeric. Bring to a boil and parboil for 30 seconds.
Drain. Let cool, then pat dry. Prick each potato once with the tines of a fork.
cover. Add the salt and turmeric. Bring to a boil and parboil for 30 seconds.
Drain. Let cool, then pat dry. Prick each potato once with the tines of a fork.
Place the potatoes in a wide pot and add enough oil to
cover. Bring to a boil, without stirring, over medium-high heat, about 15
minutes.
cover. Bring to a boil, without stirring, over medium-high heat, about 15
minutes.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer, shaking the pan
occasionally, until the potatoes are crusty and lightly golden, about 1 hour.
At this point, the potatoes can be removed from the heat and allowed to sit in
the oil, for up to 3 hours.
occasionally, until the potatoes are crusty and lightly golden, about 1 hour.
At this point, the potatoes can be removed from the heat and allowed to sit in
the oil, for up to 3 hours.
Shortly before serving, increase the heat to medium-high
and fry until the crust is very hard and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Drain
on paper towels. Serve warm.
and fry until the crust is very hard and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Drain
on paper towels. Serve warm.
Before serving, remove whole spices if desired, or
simply advise guests to leave them to the side of their plate
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 teaspoon cumin
2-inch piece cinnamon
2–3 whole green cardamom pods
5–6 whole black peppercorns
4–5 whole cloves
1 onion, finely chopped
2 finely minced garlic cloves
1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
2 cups long-grain rice, preferably basmati
Salt to taste
Heat oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add cumin
and sauté just until aroma arises, avoid burning. Stir in cinnamon, cardamom,
peppercorns and cloves; sauté for 10 seconds. Add onion, garlic and ginger;
sauté until onions are translucent, stirring occasionally so spices don’t burn
or stick.
and sauté just until aroma arises, avoid burning. Stir in cinnamon, cardamom,
peppercorns and cloves; sauté for 10 seconds. Add onion, garlic and ginger;
sauté until onions are translucent, stirring occasionally so spices don’t burn
or stick.
Add rice and salt to taste; mix well and sauté for 2
minutes. Add 3 3/4 cups water and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer and
cook, covered, for 20 minutes, until all water is absorbed and rice is tender. Serves
4 to 6.
minutes. Add 3 3/4 cups water and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer and
cook, covered, for 20 minutes, until all water is absorbed and rice is tender. Serves
4 to 6.
Like all stews, this curry is excellent prepared a day
or two in advance. Add the cilantro just before serving.
or two in advance. Add the cilantro just before serving.
3 tablespoons canola oil
3 large onions, chopped
6 cloves garlic
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
5 fresh beefsteak tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon cayenne or other ground hot red pepper, or to
taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Salt to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder or 4 lamb shoulder
chops (about 2 1/2 pounds), trimmed very well and cut into 1-inch cubes
2–3 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cubed
chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
Heat oil over medium heat in large, heavy Dutch oven or
wide pot. Add onions and sauté, stirring occasionally, until golden brown.
wide pot. Add onions and sauté, stirring occasionally, until golden brown.
Pulse garlic and ginger in a food processor until chopped
finely. Add tomatoes, red pepper, cumin and turmeric; process to a coarse
puree. Stir the tomato mixture into the onions, together with black pepper,
salt to taste, cinnamon and cloves; cook for 5 minutes. Add meat; cook over
moderate heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add potatoes; cover and
cook until meat and potatoes are very tender.
finely. Add tomatoes, red pepper, cumin and turmeric; process to a coarse
puree. Stir the tomato mixture into the onions, together with black pepper,
salt to taste, cinnamon and cloves; cook for 5 minutes. Add meat; cook over
moderate heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add potatoes; cover and
cook until meat and potatoes are very tender.
If sauce is not thick enough, remove meat and potatoes
with a slotted spoon and set aside. Boil sauce, uncovered, until it has cooked
down a bit. Return meat and potatoes to sauce to reheat. Taste; adjust
seasoning. Garnish with cilantro and serve with Aromatic Spiced Rice or other
freshly cooked rice.
with a slotted spoon and set aside. Boil sauce, uncovered, until it has cooked
down a bit. Return meat and potatoes to sauce to reheat. Taste; adjust
seasoning. Garnish with cilantro and serve with Aromatic Spiced Rice or other
freshly cooked rice.
Serves 4 to 6.