The Culinary Connoisseur
Marvelous Mushrooms
Contrary to popular belief, mushrooms are not
vegetables. They are part of the fungus family and contain almost
80% water. Most mushrooms were originally discovered growing wild
in forests. Some species like morels and chanterelles are still
harvested from forests today. Others, such as the white button
mushroom, cremini or portabella are cultivated on mushroom farms for
sale.
vegetables. They are part of the fungus family and contain almost
80% water. Most mushrooms were originally discovered growing wild
in forests. Some species like morels and chanterelles are still
harvested from forests today. Others, such as the white button
mushroom, cremini or portabella are cultivated on mushroom farms for
sale.
The French actually learned to grow white
mushrooms in the early 1700’s. It took decades for others to catch
on to the taste of these versatile fungi.
mushrooms in the early 1700’s. It took decades for others to catch
on to the taste of these versatile fungi.
For many years white mushrooms were only
available canned or jarred, leading to their well deserved rubbery
reputation. Today, the abundance of mushroom varieties found in
supermarkets and groceries bring new dimensions to their uses. White
mushrooms, sautéed with shallots or onions, make excellent additions
to quiches, soups and sauces. Of course, combining white mushrooms
with other varieties like cremini, oyster and portabella adds depth
of flavor to the simplest of recipes. Here’s what to look for when
buying mushroom varieties:
available canned or jarred, leading to their well deserved rubbery
reputation. Today, the abundance of mushroom varieties found in
supermarkets and groceries bring new dimensions to their uses. White
mushrooms, sautéed with shallots or onions, make excellent additions
to quiches, soups and sauces. Of course, combining white mushrooms
with other varieties like cremini, oyster and portabella adds depth
of flavor to the simplest of recipes. Here’s what to look for when
buying mushroom varieties:
Cremini–small to medium brown mushroom
with slightly open gills (dark part under cap) are a good choice for
inexpensive flavor.
with slightly open gills (dark part under cap) are a good choice for
inexpensive flavor.
Portabella–mature creminis left to grow
up to 6” in diameter, with gills that are completely open.
Portabellas have an earthy, meaty taste that stands up to grilling
and roasting.
up to 6” in diameter, with gills that are completely open.
Portabellas have an earthy, meaty taste that stands up to grilling
and roasting.
Shiitake–flat-topped mushroom with long
stems. These are sold fresh and are very flavorful. Trim and
discard the stems before cooking and add to any recipe. Shiitakes
caps are also available dried and can be refreshed by soaking in
water.
stems. These are sold fresh and are very flavorful. Trim and
discard the stems before cooking and add to any recipe. Shiitakes
caps are also available dried and can be refreshed by soaking in
water.
Oyster–now found in supermarkets, this
mild flavored mushroom has a leafy looking cap. The unusual shape
adds eye appeal to any mushroom dish.
mild flavored mushroom has a leafy looking cap. The unusual shape
adds eye appeal to any mushroom dish.
Enoki–these long-stemmed, oriental
mushrooms with tiny white caps are often used for garnish as they are
very delicate.
mushrooms with tiny white caps are often used for garnish as they are
very delicate.
Morel, Chanterelle and Porcini—the
most expensive mushroom assortment and only available in season.
These varieties are sometimes sold dry and adding a little to a
recipe will crank up the flavors of the other mushrooms.
most expensive mushroom assortment and only available in season.
These varieties are sometimes sold dry and adding a little to a
recipe will crank up the flavors of the other mushrooms.
Whatever variety you are purchasing, always
choose firm mushrooms that are not wrinkled or spotted. Most
mushrooms need not be peeled and can simply be wiped clean with a
damp paper towel. If you must wash them, do so immediately before
cooking as they will quickly turn slimy.
choose firm mushrooms that are not wrinkled or spotted. Most
mushrooms need not be peeled and can simply be wiped clean with a
damp paper towel. If you must wash them, do so immediately before
cooking as they will quickly turn slimy.
All mushrooms can be used interchangeably or
better yet, combine them and experiment with our favorites. But
remember, if you find blue or red mushrooms in the woods, leave those
alone!
better yet, combine them and experiment with our favorites. But
remember, if you find blue or red mushrooms in the woods, leave those
alone!
Duxelles is the French name for a mixture of
diced mushrooms that is sautéed and used as a filling for turnovers
and other pastries.
diced mushrooms that is sautéed and used as a filling for turnovers
and other pastries.
8 tablespoons butter or oil, divided
¼ cup shallots, minced
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ pound shiitake or porcini mushrooms, chopped
½ pound fresh white button mushrooms, chopped
¼ cup white wine
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, checked and
chopped
chopped
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8 full-sized sheets phyllo dough
Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large
skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic. Sauté until
fragrant. Add mushrooms and continue sautéing until most of the
moisture has evaporated. Add wine and parsley. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. Remove from heat and allow the mushroom mixture to
cool completely.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Prepare a sheet
pan.
pan.
Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter.
Allow to cool slightly. Place one phyllo sheet lengthwise on your
countertop or Silpat. Brush lightly with butter, beginning at the
outer edges and working toward the middle. Cover with another sheet
of phyllo. Brush once again with butter. Repeat twice more until
you have 4 sheets stacked.
Allow to cool slightly. Place one phyllo sheet lengthwise on your
countertop or Silpat. Brush lightly with butter, beginning at the
outer edges and working toward the middle. Cover with another sheet
of phyllo. Brush once again with butter. Repeat twice more until
you have 4 sheets stacked.
Cut the stack of phyllo sheets crosswise into
eight equal strips. Place one tablespoon of filling near one end of
each strip. Lift up one corner diagonally to cover the filling.
Fold the point of the filled corner so it meets the opposite side of
the strip and forms a triangle. Fold the triangle straight so the
filling is completely enclosed. Continue folding the triangle onto
itself, until you reach the end. Brush the outside of each triangle
with melted butter. Repeat instructions with the other 4 sheets of
phyllo and the rest of the filling.
eight equal strips. Place one tablespoon of filling near one end of
each strip. Lift up one corner diagonally to cover the filling.
Fold the point of the filled corner so it meets the opposite side of
the strip and forms a triangle. Fold the triangle straight so the
filling is completely enclosed. Continue folding the triangle onto
itself, until you reach the end. Brush the outside of each triangle
with melted butter. Repeat instructions with the other 4 sheets of
phyllo and the rest of the filling.
Place the triangles on a baking sheet and bake
12-15 minutes or until golden. These can also be frozen raw and
baked as needed. Makes 12-16 appetizers
12-15 minutes or until golden. These can also be frozen raw and
baked as needed. Makes 12-16 appetizers
Shiitake Mushroom & Potato Jalousie
A jalousie refers to a pastry that is made
of two layers of dough, surrounding a filling. The edges of the two
layers are pinched together by hand, or crimped with the tongs of a
fork. Before baking, slits are cut in the top crust. This will allow
steam to escape during baking and also create decorative windows in
the crust—like a jalousie window.
of two layers of dough, surrounding a filling. The edges of the two
layers are pinched together by hand, or crimped with the tongs of a
fork. Before baking, slits are cut in the top crust. This will allow
steam to escape during baking and also create decorative windows in
the crust—like a jalousie window.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded,
chopped
chopped
3 potatoes, peeled and cubed
¼ cup mayonnaise
Salt and pepper
Pinch of nutmeg
36 puff pastry squares, thawed slightly
1 egg, slightly beaten
Boil potatoes until soft; about 20 minutes.
Drain well and mash.
In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil. Sauté
onions until limp. Add mushrooms and sauté until liquid evaporates.
Add potatoes, mayonnaise and seasoning. Mix until smooth.
onions until limp. Add mushrooms and sauté until liquid evaporates.
Add potatoes, mayonnaise and seasoning. Mix until smooth.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Place 1 puff
pastry square on your floured work surface. Place 1 heaping teaspoon
filling in the center. Brush egg on border. Take another square, dust
with flour and fold lightly in half. Cut 6-7 parallel slits to the
fold, cutting through the fold, leaving a narrow border all around.
Unfold square and place on top of the filling. Press edges down with
fingers to adhere. Bake for 20 minutes until golden.
pastry square on your floured work surface. Place 1 heaping teaspoon
filling in the center. Brush egg on border. Take another square, dust
with flour and fold lightly in half. Cut 6-7 parallel slits to the
fold, cutting through the fold, leaving a narrow border all around.
Unfold square and place on top of the filling. Press edges down with
fingers to adhere. Bake for 20 minutes until golden.
Jalousie can be prepared in advance and frozen
raw. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until golden.
raw. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until golden.